How Should Your Climbing Shoes Fit

Climbing shoes having to be painful is a persistent myth

You shouldn't dread putting your climbing shoes on. This guide will break down how you can find the best climbing shoes for you and how they should fit.

How should climbing shoes feel

Climbing shoe type

Different styles of climbing shoes are going to feel different. Which style you choose will depend on the types of climbs you are doing. The right shoe for short single-pitch sport routes may not be the best choice for long days on easy mountain routes, for example.

Neutral

Neutral climbing shoes offer a relaxed fit for all-day comfort. Your toes can lie flat inside the shoes. Because they tend to be more comfortable, neutral shoes are a good choice for beginner climbers. They're also good for experienced climbers who want comfortable, all-day shoes for long multi-pitch climbs. Neutral shoes will also include technical styles that are well suited to slab climbing and mountain routes.

Moderate

Moderate shoes have a slightly downturned shape (also called a camber). They balance comfort with performance, making them good all-rounders. They are less comfortable than neutral shoes but less extreme than aggressive climbing shoes.

Aggressive

Aggressive shoes have a very downturned shape and lots of heel tension. This puts your feet in a very strong position for challenging overhanging climbs but will be the least comfortable than other shapes of climbing shoe. Because of the snug fit and downturned shape, climbers typically wear aggressive shoes for indoor and outdoor bouldering and sport climbing rather than all-day multi-pitch climbs.

“For multi-pitch routes I like a snug fitting moderate shoe as I don't mind taking them off while belaying but don't want them to be too uncomfortable on longer pitches, especially as your feet swell throughout the day”

Oscar Sandeman, Product Copywriter

Closure types

Lace-up

Velcro

These offer a more customisable fit but can be less convenient to take fully off.

Climbing shoe material

Shoe uppers are either leather or synthetic. The material of your climbing shoes will impact how much they will stretch with wear.

Unlined leather: these can stretch up to a full size. Size them so that your toes just touch the end of the shoe, so you can feel (but not see) your toe knuckles pushing against the leather.
Lined leather: when a leather upper is lined, stretch is reduced to a half size or less. Sometimes manufacturers line only the toes to keep the cost down and to reduce stretch where it tends to occur the most.
Synthetic materials: synthetic shoes don't stretch much and soften up slightly with use, but there is little give so don't expect the fit to change much. Perforated synthetic uppers have a bit more give than solid fabric.

Most beginner shoes have a small rubber toe patch while more technical / aggressive models use extended panels for better performance on steep terrain and/or indoor comp style boulder holds. Because the rubber doesn't stretch, it can make the forefoot feel quite rigid and put extra pressure on the toes

"Ever since I broke my toe, I find shoes with big rubber toe patches too painful as it presses down on the bone break & scar tissue. So this plays a big part when thinking about how my shoe will fit." - Ellie Anstice, Product copywriter

Assessing the fit of your climbing shoes

Toebox

All of your toes should be right at the end of the toe box with no empty space.

Heel

This should feel secure and snug. This is more important for sport and indoor climbers looking to do routes that include lots of heel hooks. See if your heel and see if it shifts in the shoes. Your foot should stay firmly in place.

Sides

Your shoes should feel snug around the sides of your feet with no fabric bunching or gaping at the sides. If your toes are in the toebox but the shoe is still baggy you may need a lower volume shoe.

Pinch points

your shoes should be snug but without any points of extreme pressure or pain.

Our tips for fitting climbing shoes

Climbing shoe volume

Lower volume climbing shoes refer to shoes that are narrower and have a smaller heel shape.

'Low volume' was traditionally equated with a women’s specific fit. However, brands are moving away from signalling gender, instead focusing on low volume as a fit in its own right. Forefoot width, instep, ankle, and heel profile can vary greatly for every individual.

Climbing shoe size

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