Skiing in the Cairngorms, Scotland

Early conditions meant Matt from our Aviemore store got his Cairngorm 4000 ski tour in early this year.

Introduction

I’ve been at Ellis Brigham as a ski technician and ski boot fitter in Aviemore for over a year. Being based here means that I can support my passion for the mountains. In winter, when conditions are right, that means ski touring.

The Caingorm 4000s ski tour is something I look forward to every winter. It spans over the five highest peaks of the Cairngorms National Park and covers approximately 36km, with 2300m of elevation gain. Doing it early in the season requires a decent level of navigation and risk awareness. The days are shorter, and the weather can often be very changeable. Instabilities in the snowpack also lead to increased risk.

Packing for skiing in the Cairngorms

Packing for Skiing in the Cairngorms

Some essentials include:

- Food

- Water

- Transceiver

- Shovel

- Probe

- Skis and ski boots

- Helmet

- Goggles

- Blizzard bag

- Map and compass

- Spare layers

- Gloves and spare gloves

- Head torches

- GORE-TEX Pro jacket and pants

- Boots and ski crampons

- Poles

- Power bank

- First aid kit

- Repair kit

My knowledge of what to take on these trips has built up over the years. From smaller ski tours to having completed the Cairngorm 4000 many times over the years - in winter and summer conditions.

In the days leading up to this trip, I thought about all the kit I was taking in meticulous detail. I discussed route options with friends. The snow levels. The possible avalanche risk. All while making sure my body was also feeling good.

Completing the Cairngorms 4000ers ski tour

Transitioning at the top to ski down, we were treated to great views across the other peaks of the day. They all seemed so far away and out of reach.

The first downhill turns are always a pleasure. Popping off little kickers while Johny captured some of the magic through his lens. A mostly smooth ski down in first light saw us quickly transitioning to make the journey to the next peak, Ben Macdui.

Along the way, Johny had a few mares. His skins weren't enjoying connecting to his skis and kept trying to go off on their own little journeys. He was less amused than I was. There’s always something special about sharing these types of days with someone else. Everywhere we look there are mountains blanketed in snow. The bands of rock defined them and added character. We couldn't see anyone else besides the odd ptarmigan or mountain hare.

Making good time to Ben Macdui was key. This was a crucial moment in the journey where I'd try to find an appropriate line off the mountain, into the Lairig Ghru. I knew there was some good snow down to Taillears Burn from a few weeks ago, so that’s where I headed.

The least attractive part of my day was the river crossing. By now I'd done it enough times to have a procedure in place. Find the shortest section to walk across, and throw my skis, boots and socks off. Wade across, haul myself onto the heather. Socks and boots back on as quickly as possible. From here the rest of the day was simple (or so I thought).

I wasn't sure whether I saw someone in it. So, following the appropriate procedures, I contacted Mountain Rescue and informed them of the situation. (It later turned out to be a rock.) With a long day still ahead of me I continued, with the added stress of what just happened. After a long skin and a slow plod up the ridge, I made it to Cairn Toul for sunset. And, oh boy, what a sight to behold.

I was feeling very grateful at this moment in time. With light fading and blue hues in the sky, I clambered down the boulder fields and skinned up over Angels Peak. There was a limited quantity of snow at this point, though it did get better on the approach to Braeriach. Here, I had a sky full of stars. Not a breath of wind in the air. A good time to reflect on the day so far. I veered off course a fraction but corrected myself. Within time, I had made it to the fifth and final peak of the day. Following my compass bearing I skied off of Braeriach; dodging yet more rocks and sliding my way down into the Lairig Ghru. This is where I found myself feeling most tired. 12 hours in, halfway through yet another boulder field covered in light snow. Making slow progress, but progress nonetheless. Although I was incredibly tired, I was also giggling to myself. Enjoying the fact that there was no one else around but me. I was here on my own terms, and I was going to finish this.

Travelling on skis through the Scottish landscape has to be one of my favourite forms of adventure. Exploring hard-to-reach locations and familiar areas is an absolute sensory overload. The snow giving you a new outlook on the landscape. Couple all that with pushing my boundaries and comfort zone in Scottish skiing. I'm here for the mountains.

Skiing in Scotland FAQs

How does skiing in Scotland differ from other locations? 
Skiing in Scotland has its own considerations. The landscape can be very variable, as can be the snowline. There’s a high chance of hitting rocks (we call them ‘sharks’). You should also expect to come across river crossings – even in winter. Very low visibility is likely so you need a good understanding of the weather, including avalanche reporting.

Are there any specific safety considerations for skiing in Scotland?
With any backcountry ski area, knowing how to use a transceiver, shovel and probe is essential. You’ll also need to be confident in being self-sufficient when you’re out. If you find yourself in trouble, a rescue could take hours so always make sure you are prepared.

What is the best time of the year for skiing in Scotland?
When we have snow! The ski season in Scotland varies depending on the weather. But is typically at its best between January to April, subject to climate change.

Where is the Cairngorm Mountain ski resort
Less than 10 miles from the local town of Aviemore, you can easily access the resort by car, bus, or push-bike.

Where to stay in the Cairngorms?
There are plenty of hotels and motels in Aviemore and the surrounding area, including Premier Inn and Coylumbridge Hotel, as well as campsites.

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