Belay Device Buying Guide

Active assisted braking belay devices

Active ABDs feature an auto-locking mechanism, such as an internal cam. When a sudden force is applied (e.g., when a climber falls), the device locks down on the rope. This helps the belayer to catch and hold the fall. When used in the correct way, they give an enhanced level of safety to your climbing system. A favourite for sport climbing, Active ABDs make holding the climber after a fall or as they rest on-route far easier. Clamping down on the rope, they take pressure off the belayer’s braking hand, helping to reduce fatigue. This is not an opportunity for the belayer to rest hands-free! They should always maintain a grip on the rope. While offering increased security, there are some drawbacks to these devices. To start, most will only work with a single rope. They have a limited rope diameter range and struggle to grip icy or frozen ropes. Heavier and bulkier due to the more complex designs, these models also tend to be the most expensive.

Passive assisted braking belay devices

Unlike their Active counterparts, Passive ABDs have no moving parts. Instead, they work by pinching the rope between the device and a carabiner. Enhancing the braking action, it increases security while belaying. Without an internal camming mechanism, Passive ABDs are lighter and more compact. Models in this category include single- and double rope-compatible options. A popular choice for sport routes, the latter are also suitable for trad climbing and abseiling. Although offering extra safety, assisted braking devices can take a bit of time to get used to. They all have slight differences in how they work, so switching between models is not as easy as it is with tubular devices.

Carabiner compatability

When it comes to belay devices, not all carabiners are created equal. The first and most important rule: it must be a locking carabiner. The most common locking mechanism you will find is a screwgate. Automatic locking mechanisms such as a twistlock gate are also available. Next to consider is size. For belaying, you want to choose a carabiner with a generous top bar. With wide radiuses that let the rope run smoothly and large gate openings, HMS carabiners are perfect. If you are looking to enhance safety, choose a locking carabiner with a belay loop keeper. The clever design traps the belay loop of your harness. It ensures the carabiner stays in the correct position and minimises any chances of cross-loading.

Belay sets

For those starting out or looking to save some money, a belay set is a great buy. Comprising a belay device and corresponding carabiner, they work out cheaper than if you were to buy the gear separately. You also get the benefit of knowing the carabiner is perfectly matched for the demands of belaying.

Rope compatability

As with carabiners, not all ropes will work with all devices. It is crucial to check that your belay device is compatible with the type of rope (e.g., single) you are climbing with. You will also need to check the rope diameter range of your device. If the rope is too thick, it may not feed through the belay device properly. Too thin, and the device might not be able to grip it enough in the event of a fall. Alongside thickness, the sheath, density, and any coatings the rope has will also affect how well it works in the belay device. Don’t forget that usage will also change how the climbing rope feels. A slick, smooth rope that is new will handle quite differently from an old fluffy rope of the same nominal diameter.

Weight differences

If there is a notable weight difference between climbing partners, consider adding an assisted-braking resistor to the system. You attach it via a quickdraw to the first bolt, and the rope runs through it. In the event of a fall, it increases the amount of rope friction. This makes it easier for the lighter belayer to hold the heavier climber. It also improves control when lowering and helps avoid the belayer getting pulled from the ground.