Scottish Winter Mountaineering Classics

Winter is a special time in the mountains and nowhere is this truer than in Scotland, which with the arrival of snow becomes a winter playground for walkers and mountaineers to enjoy.

Introduction

In this article, we have teamed up with the Scottish National Outdoor Training Centre, Glenmore Lodge, to choose 25 classic winter routes with something for everyone – mostly grade I to III, but with a few walks and grade IVs thrown in for good measure.

There are routes included that would be on every mountaineer's wish list, but some that may surprise you too. They all require the skills of travelling through the mountains in winter, but most also require the technical skills of ice and mixed climbing. Winter mountaineering is extremely rewarding, but every winter the unprepared get caught out, so take care and if in doubt go with someone more experienced. Before we get started, let's have a quick recap on winter grades, courtesy of the BMC.

Winter Grades

Grade I: The easiest climbs. Straightforward snow slopes up to 50 degrees, or simple scrambles on snowed up rock. One ice axe is enough.

Grade II: Steeper sections with ice, but still normally less than vertical. Mostly climbable with one axe, but some may require two.

Grades III+: Increasingly long sections of steep climbing and commitment. Two axes are necessary.

Above III: individual crux pitches are also graded. For example, Point Five Gully at V,5 is a benchmark V, while a well protected hard mixed climb might be graded V,7. Zero Gully is less technical but serious so gets V,4.

Grade II/III