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Mountaineering Boot Buying Guide
Introduction
Crampons are an essential piece of kit whether you’re winter hillwalking, scrambling or winter climbing above the snow line. Crampons are vital for your safety in snowy and icy mountain conditions but require some practice to learn how to use them. Here are the basics to help you get started.
Are your boots crampon compatible?
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When to use crampons
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How to fit crampons
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C1
When fitting C1 crampons insert the boot toes first and secure the rear heel in the plastic bail. Run the webbing strap through the toe bail, around to the heel bail on the opposite side to the buckle and back across the ankle to the double eyelet buckle and fasten securely. Tie the excess strap to the toe piece and cut any excess.
C2
To fit C2 crampons insert the toe as for a C1 crampon. To attach the heel piece line up the heel lever is lined up with the boot’s heel welt, it should snap shut securely. Fit the webbing strap through the toe piece then through the eyelet and fasten.
C3
C3 crampons fit a little differently, adjust the metal wire toe bail to securely fit the boot’s toe welt and step in toes first. Fit the rear bail as for a C2 and lock it shut securely. Run the webbing strap across the front of the ankle and fasten or clip securely.
When fitting any type of crampon, it’s important to check for good contact between the boot's sole and the crampon. You should also continually check them throughout the day and tighten the buckle if they are loosening.
How to walk in crampons
Walking in crampons requires some practice. It's important to keep your feet wider apart because it's easy to catch them on your trousers.This not only rips your trousers, but it can also cause you to stumble or fall.
Once you’ve got your crampons on it’s time to get moving again, the way you walk in crampons depends on the angle of terrain.
Flat footing
The most common method is flat footing, taking normal-length steps and landing with flat feet and full contact on all the points of your crampons. To make flat footing less tiring you can turn your feet out slightly, known as a duckwalk.
You can also step uphill sideways whilst flat footing, with your toes pointing across the hill and ankles rolled slightly downhill. Keep your balance over the uphill foot and step up once your uphill crampon is placed securely with all points engaged.
Front pointing
As the name suggests front pointing engages just the forward-facing front points of your crampons and the second row of crampons. This is great for steeper slopes above 40 degrees or steeper snow or ice climbing. Shift your body weight forward and keep your heels raised so you are leaning over your toes rather than your heels so your points bite effectively.
Hybrid method
When terrain steepens, flat footing even with duck walking will become tiring. At this point you can use a hybrid technique, front pointing with one foot and flat footing with the other.
Descent
When descending you can flat foot or front point in reverse. Descending while front point is time-consuming but is stable and secure, and you can use the pick of your ice axe for balance.
Don't be afraid to take it slowly until you're used to thes techniques. Once you're confident walking with sharp points on the bottom of your boots, crampons can open up a lifetime of adventures in the winter mountains.
Remember you should always stay within your limits, accompanied by a qualified instructor or experienced winter climber.
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