Ice Axe Buying Guide

Hill walking in winter can be more akin to full on mountaineering than summer hill walking. You need the full kit including crampons and at least a single walking axe. Your axe offers stability on snowy terrain, with a pick for security when embedded in névé or in ice axe arrest mode, and a shovel (adze) to cut steps and dig belay positions. The simplest walking axes are straight shafted. This makes the axe spike easy to plunge into snow and lends stability when zig-zagging up moderate snow slopes. This shape is also easy to manoeuvre in self-arrest mode. For Munro bagging, Welsh or Lake District fell walking, alpine glacier crossings and non-technical snow ascents the simple straight shafted walking axe is likely to be a good choice.

There is a broad spectrum of mountaineering that lies between snowy walking and full on technical climbing; think Scottish winter mountaineering up to grade II or III or alpine routes to around AD. These routes may be snowed up scrambles like Ledge Route or steepening gullys like Number 2 gully on Ben Nevis. If you expect to encounter some steep ground like this, a semi-technical ‘alpine’ axe (or pair of axes) will be much more appropriate than a walking axe. The design combines a straight lower shaft (to facilitate plunging) and a slightly curved upper shaft (giving an easier swing with better clearance). These axes tend to be 50 to 60cm long. The slightly shorter length allows for a more comfortable and accurate swing when used in ‘climbing’ mode. However they are still comfortable to carry and use in ‘walking’ mode.

Fully curved with steep pick angles and protective lower hand rests, the modern technical axe will make any winter climb easier. The curved shaft clears obstacles and presents the pick to the ice at an ideal angle for stable placements. The standard approach is to carry one adze and one hammer. The adze allows you to scrape rime away from cracks or other potential protection placements, or excavate an ice axe belay or bollard. The hammer is there to bash pitons into thin cracks, or to ensure that hex and nut placements are as stable as they can be. With this combination you will be prepared for pretty much any Scottish winter climb of any grade, though they will really be in their element in the mid to high grades (say III to VII).

The handle is designed to be more ergonomic with a more comfortable wrist position and increased stability on skittish pick placements and shallow hooks. These axes are specifically intended to be used ‘leashless’, leaving hands free to exploit the upper handrest and match up on one axe if needed. These top end axes are always used as a pair, usually with minimal hammer set ups rather than with a full size adze and hammer. The adze is unnecessary on really steep ground, but might be dangerous if a tool popped out close to your face! Also beware of the walk in as the complex shafts won’t plunge.

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