Crampons Buying Guide

Introduction

Crampons are metal devices which fit to the soles of mountaineering boots. Their toothed design helps to secure traction on ice and hard-packed snow. Mountaineers and ice climbers wear crampons when heading above the snowline.

This guide takes you through the different elements to consider when choosing crampons. Crampons need to be compatible with your boots to work correctly.

Anatomy

Anatomy of a crampon

There are several main components to a crampon. Their composition and design affect their performance and how you should use them.

So, it's important to understand what each part does.

Binding system

Base

Crampon points

A crampon's points are the spiked teeth that bite into the snow and ice. They are situated at the contact areas beneath the forefoot and heel. Most crampon points are steel or stainless steel due to its strength. Some lightweight styles use aluminium for less aggressive use like ski touring.

Number of points

The number of points affects the variety of positions in which a crampon can find traction. Crampons for activities involving gentle gradients like ski touring will usually have 10 points. Those designed for more technical mountaineering will have 12 points. And those designed for technical ice climbing will often have 14. Almost all designs will have four points beneath the heel and the rest beneath the forefoot.

Horizontal points

Horizontal points look and act like a shark's front teeth. They provide excellent grip on snow and softer ice. This makes them a great choice for winter walking and moderate ice routes. But, they are not suited to technical ice climbing.

Vertical points

Vertical crampon points work like an ice axe. They drive hard straight into the ice and give a secure hold on mixed and more aggressive routes. They are the right choice for those looking for technical ice climbing crampons. But they need a greater level of precision and give less stability on flatter sections. This makes them unsuitable for gentler winter walking routes. Vertical points go with the grain of the ice, meaning there is less chance of the ice shattering or 'blowing'. The construction of vertical points also means that front points are easily replaced.

Hybrid points

Recent years have seen brands creating crampons with hybrid or 'T'-profiled points. This results in a versatile system. These are a vertical point with a horizontal profile at the top. Models like the Petzl Sarken offer the stability of horizontal points and the bite of vertical when routes become more demanding.

Monopoint crampons

Monopoint crampons feature a central point at the front of the crampon. This gives them the precision required by ice climbers, and are the go-to for scaling mixed routes. A single point means you can pivot your foot without blowing your hold. This gives you more agility. It also gives the ability to jam into fluted ice and fissures with pinpoint accuracy.

Dual point crampons

Dual points are the most popular crampon for everything except technical ice climbing. They feature a pair of points at the front, giving optimal traction and stability.

Modular points

Many high-level crampons feature a modular point system. This allows you to change between a dual and monopoint system easily with minimal tools. These make an excellent choice for routes that involve winter walking and ice climbing.

Ratings explained

Crampon ratings

Crampons consist of two distinct sections - the spiked base and the binding. The C rating relates directly to the binding rather than the 'spikes'. It is an indication of what boot a crampon binding will fit. This is regardless of the crampon's spike configuration.

This means you need to consider two types of compatibility:

Will the crampon be compatible with your mountaineering aspirations?
Will the binding be compatible with your boots?

Get the right answer to these two questions, and you will have the perfect crampon for you and your boots.

Often a particular type of 'base' is available with a variety of different binding systems. For instance, the Grivel G12 is available with either a New Matic (C2) or Cramp-o-Matic (C3) binding.

Crampon ratings

C1 crampons

Suitable for: UK winter hill walking, glacier traverses Compatible with: B1, B2, & B3 boots C1 crampons have a webbing tape tether that pulls flexible cradles around the heel and toe. This creates a secure binding. This system allows good flex and is suitable for fitting to B1, B2 or B3 boots. It is usually found on low profile 10-point crampons with less aggressive points. They are ideal for winter walking or glacier traverses.

C2 crampons

Suitable for: Technical winter scrambles, winter climbing, alpinism Compatible with: B2 & B3 boots C2 crampons use a plastic heel lever and a flexible toe cradle. This system will give a secure binding to B2 or B3 boots. Crampons tend to be mid-profile with longer secondary spikes and sharper front points. These are the-12 point all-rounders that are easy enough to walk in but still climb hard when called on. Excellent for winter climbing and alpinism.

C3 crampons

Suitable for: Ice climbing, technical mountaineering Compatible with: B3 boots only C3 crampons combine a plastic heel lever and a metal toe bar. This step-in system gives a solid fit but only works with full B3 boots. Usually, C3 bindings are on 12 or 14-point crampons that offer precise performance on steep ice or technical mixed routes. Very aggressive vertical front points give the best penetration on hard ice. Top-end crampons for top-end boots.

Mountaineering boot ratings

B ratings show if a boot is suitable for different winter terrains. They rank from B0 (not for use with crampons) to B3. Take a look at our mountaineering boots buying guide for more information.

Mountaineering boot ratings

B0 boots

B0 boots are more flexible in the soles and uppers. They are comfy out of the box and ideal for general hillwalking below the snow line. Even with modern, flexible linking bars, crampons can't flex as much as these boots. This flexing difference puts undue pressure on the binding. It can cause a crampon to pull loose and have disastrous results. You may find that the crampon straps dig in through the fabrics and cause discomfort. You should avoid B0 rated boots if the use of crampons is necessary.

B1 boots

B1 rated boots are all-round walking boots. Built for all seasons, long mountain days, and scrambles. They also work for less technical winter hill walking. They usually have a stiffened midsole and leather or fabric uppers. They are often supported by a large rubber rand or synthetic leather reinforcements. Combine only with C1 strap-on crampons that offer the best flex. A B1/C1 combination will be adequate for many UK winter fell walks and gentle snow plods.

B2 boots

The best bet for regular winter hill walkers tackling long days in snowy conditions. Both midsoles and uppers will be stiff and supportive. But, they will have just enough flex to sustain regular walking. Thicker uppers lend slightly more warmth. B2 boots feature a heel ledge for a C2 crampon. Suitable for winter Munros, low or mid-grade winter climbs and summer hikes.

B3 boots

Designed for full-on mountaineering, mixed and ice climbing. B3 boots have the stiffest soles and uppers available. They give solid side support for front pointing, step-kicking, and traversing on steep terrain. This category includes high altitude double boots and lighter technical climbing models. Heel and toe welts allow the fitting of C3 crampons. They use the easy step-in system of heel clip and toe bar.

Caring for crampons

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